Mediterranean Chef's Recipes

Smoked Salmon Carbonara

2011-10-23T11:42:00.005+02:00

This quick pasta dish was prepared for some Finns in Italy to give them a taste of home. It's not about serving tonnes of sauce or meat/fish. This type of dish is about creating a good strong flavour to work with the pasta.

Smoked Salmon approx 100g for 4 people

Single cream 200ml

2 egg yolks

Good pinch of dried dill

Fresh chopped parsley

Teaspoon of chopped capers

Salt & Pepper

Chop the salmon into small pieces and mix with the cream and all the other ingredients.

Cook some pasta and drain, whilst piping hot add it to the cream/salmon,

stir well (the heat will cook the egg) and serve with some fresh parmesan.

Hake Suquet

2010-04-09T11:06:00.004+02:00

2 filets of hake

2 large potatoes

1 big clove of garlic

olive oil

fish stock

bay leaf

parsley

prawns (if you're feeling flashy)

You can't get more Catalan than Suquet. The Es Baluard restaurant in Cadaqués cooks a superb traditional Suquet; it's basically a one pan fish & potato dish - it's scarily simple.

This is a fairly quick meal for two.

Scrub up the spuds and slice them as thinly as you can. Toss them into a hot pan with a good glug of olive oil, give them a stir and keep them on a high heat while you squash & chop a garlic clove. Add the garlic and some salt and pepper, sometimes a chopped tomato is added now. Make some fish stock and (just) cover the spuds with it, add the bay. Cook vigorously for 5 minutes

Meanwhile lightly salt & pepper your Hake filets. Place the fish on top of the spuds and cover with the lid allowing some of the steam to escape, if you are adding prawns put them in with the Hake. Give it about 10 minutes. The potatoes should be fairly browned on the pan base and the sauce good, garlicky and gloopy! Add some parsley before serving.

The Suquet in Cadaqués is cooked with Monkfish and Gambas (fresh from Port de la Selva). Check it out: Es Baluard.

Artichokes with salty butter thyme sauce

2010-03-02T10:30:00.004+01:00

12 artichoke heads

...

Cooking stock:

1.5 litres of water

2 tbs salt

3 bay leaves

1 clove of garlic - halved

juice of 1 big lemon

large sprig of fresh thyme

300 ml white wine

...

Sauce:

150 g unsalted butter

1 can of anchovies in olive oil

strands of finely julienned lemon peel (1 tsp)

1 big clove of garlic

thyme leaves (fresh)

black pepper

People are put off by 'preparing artichokes' and anchovies. Artichokes are easier then the instructions for cleaning suggest. Really you're just trying to get to the softer fruit in the centre of all those leaves. And anchovies are one of the best 'secret ingredients' you can use.

Put the Cooking stock ingredients into a pan and bring to the boil; while it's heating clean the artichokes. Don't worry about rubbing them with lemon - just do them quickly and pop them into the stock - if you can't do it rapidly pop them into a mixture of cold water with the juice of 2 lemons (to stop browning). Trim the stalk down to a less fibrous thickness; pull off a good few of the outer leaves until they look lighter green and softer; cut off the top half of the bulb and using a small teaspoon twist out the flowery fluffy bit inside. Then cut down the length and add to the stock.

Cook these a good 20 minutes or until they are quite soft. Meanwhile, make the buttery sauce.

Gently warm the butter in a sauce pan; roughly chop the anchovies then add with a bit of the can oil. In the pan using a fork (carefully) mash them in the melted butter; let it warm a minute then add a finely sliced clove of garlic; this mixture must then very gently take a slightly golden brown colour. Not long before serving add the fresh thyme leaves and some black pepper while still on the heat.

Drain the artichokes and let them stand for a minute or two to drain off the liquid.

Arrange on a plate. Add the lemon julienne (super thin strands of lemon peel - no white/pith) to the butter sauce and then drizzle over the artichokes. Serve with a good fluffy bread to soak up the salty buttery juice.

Authentic Dal

2010-02-15T11:38:00.005+01:00

I've been cooking Dal for 20 years.

This version with red lentils tastes pretty authentic to me. It's based on a Madhur Jaffrey recipe.

Tips. Don't add salt until very late in the cooking. At times, like this - add the garlic late for extra garlicky kick.

1 and a quarter cups of red lentils

water

turmeric 1 tsp

2 tsp mustard seed

1 tsp finely chopped dried chillies

1 tsp cumin seeds

1 tsp fennel seeds

1 level tsp fenugreek powder

1/2 tsp dried oregano

2 tsp tamarind pureé

pinch of sugar

1 clove of garlic

1 tbs fresh coriander - chopped

salt

Cover the lentils (about half a centimetre covered) add the turmeric, stir and leave to stand for four hours if possible.

After this cook the lentils on a low heat for 30 mins (or if you can't leave them standing cook slowly for up to an hour).

Stir them at times to stop sticking; they should start to break down into a more soupy texture. Don't worry about it being too watery, this can be cooked down later.

Heat some groundnut oil in a pan and add the mustard seeds - followed by all the other dried spice.

Stir as it splutters and then after about 1 minute add the lentils and the tamarind and cook for about 20 mins. After this add the salt and the garlic - finely squashed and chopped. Depending on whether the taramind has sugar or not adjust the flavour if necessary with a touch of sugar. Cook for a further 10 mins or until it's of a fairly thick texture. Stir in the chopped coriander.

Olivada Relish

2009-07-24T11:45:00.003+02:00

Olivada is basically a puree of olives; the French version includes anchovy. It's delicious on toast or diluted with more oil as a salad dressing. First make the olivada:

500g good, stoned black olives
1 clove of garlic
100g anchovy fillets (oil not salt)
50g capers
olive oil
pepper

Blend the above until you have a good consistency, this is good for dipping or toast.
But you can make it smoother by adding approximately more of:

good extra virgin olive oil 100ml
vinegar from capers 50ml

Whooz it until it's very smooth - and adjust the oil/vinegar to taste.

Gazpacho

2009-07-24T11:28:00.003+02:00

This is a bread-less or gluten free recipe. In the south of Spain, traditionally this soup was made with dry bread and ripe tomatoes; all quite abundant, I've omitted the bread. Serves 4.

1 kg ripe tomatoes
2 cloves garlic
1 spanish onion
1 small cucumber
1 green pepper
extra virgin olive oil 50ml
vinegar de xeres 20 ml
cup of cool water or more
salt & pepper

Usually you should skin the tomatoes. Strain 'em, it's easier. Cut the stems from the tomatoes and chop all the vegetables add some water then whuzz with a blender until fine. Strain them through a chinois or conical sieve a couple of times, a normal sieve is next to impossible. After, add the oil slowly while stirring and then the vinegar. Season and adjust the last 4 ingredients to taste. Cool in a fridge for at least half an hour before serving.

I served it with an ice cube containing a basil leaf !

Credit Crisis Soup or Cream of Potato and Garlic

2008-12-15T14:22:00.005+01:00

This is loosely based around a French soup I once did from Floyd. And on this cold morning it's dedicated to Zola whose epic novel Germinal lives on in my memory. This soup is very simple and tastes better than it sounds. Whatsmore it's very cost effective.

2 large potatoes

1 large onion

3 large cloves of garlic

1 litre of stock

Salt & pepper

Bay leaf

Egg yolk

chives

Finely slice the onion and cook gently for 10 minutes or until it's gone past the translucent stage. Add the chopped garlic, stir and then wash, clean and chop up the potatoes into cubes (leave the skin - it's good). Add the potatoes a pinch of salt and pepper, the stock & a bay leaf.

Simmer until the potatoes are soft. Remove the bay and liquidize until it's beautifully smooth.

Pour the hot soup into a bowl and immediately add an egg yolk to the centre; make sure the soup is hot. Garnish with chives and some drops of extra virgin olive oil. If you're feeling flush replace the egg with a blob of caviar!! Serves 4

Microwave vegetarian mousaka (non-meat)

2008-12-11T18:37:00.010+01:00

The oven is on the blink - so I adapted my old mousaka recipe slightly - it works well in the microwave; and after cooking it's simply fabulous the next day. You may know the aubergine as eggplant.

Approx 400g of prepared green lentils
1 bay leaf
1 sprig of thyme
1 large red pepper
2 medium onions
2 cloves of garlic
1 large aubergine
1 large potato
2 tbs of tomato puree
1 pint of milk
1 tsb of flour
1 tbs of olive oil
200g emmental cheese
1 egg
pepper
salt

Chop the onion roughly and start to fry in olive oil, meanwhile cut the red pepper into half-inch chunks, add this to the onions. These need to be cooked harshly, so that there's a little bit of scorching and a good colour - build that flavour! Then add a chopped clove of garlic and two tablespoons of tomato puree and a quater of a teaspoon of cinnamon powder. Then add the drained lentils with a bay leaf, sprig of thyme and salt. ( If cooking from scratch add water with a bay leaf, a clove of garlic and a sprig of thyme and cook without salt until tender; add salt at the end and remove whole spices - then continue as above). Add a level teaspoon of oregano and let this cook.

Slice the abergine into 10ml or half-inch slices, fry gently until lightly brown in olive oil; this takes time; you may want to take off some oil with kitchen paper. As these are cooking slice a potato the same size and with a cup of hot water add to the pepper onion mix, cover with a lid - this makes sure the potatoes are cooked properly.

Make the bechamel: heat the olive oil in a pan gently, seive in the flour and stir until it's nicely mixed. Add the milk and stir until it starts to thicken, remove & add cheese & pepper.

Layer the ingredients in a microwaveable pot, lastly add an egg to the bechamel, whisk in to mix and then add as a top layer to the mousaka.

Microwave on low setting for 15 minutes, stop every 5 for a pause (this will depend on the microwave, basically cook gently until the topping looks firmer, brown under the grill if you have one that doesn't blow the fuses !

Don't serve it too hot. This dish tastes amazing when it's slightly cooler or even cold.

Crema Catalana

2008-12-10T20:36:00.000+01:00

Crema Catalana.

200g sugar
4 egg yolks
1 tbs corn flour
grated rind 1/2 lemon
1/2 stick of cinnamon
500 ml milk & cream mix
sugar for topping

Get the best eggs you can, don't use cheap supermarket ones for this - they have an odd odour - and don't get the superb yellow colour you want. First of all put the milk and cream mixture on a low heat and add the lemon rind and cinnamon, don't boil it ! Discard the egg whites, or at least use them to make merangue. Use a whisk to mix the sugar and egg yokes, then add the flour.

After the milk has been infused with flavour (approx half an hour) gently sieve the milk into the egg/sugar mix, stir it well, put it back in the pan and slowly heat up to the boil - stirring constantly. Keep focused here or it goes lumpy. Sometimes it takes longer than others; when it's going like thickish cream take off the heat and pour into ramekins or bowls, then chill in the fridge until ready to use.

When about to serve or a little before sprinkle some sugar on the top of the crema and then use a blow torch (yes, there's always one lying around) or grill until a golden brown crust is formed OR

Make a syrup by adding equal amounts of sugar and water and slowly melt/reduce until it goes golden, careful as this soon burns and it soon burns you ! Takes a spoon and drizzle/pour/lace the ramekins with stands or shapes in sugar solution, this has to be done quickly as it sets rapidly.

Garnish with julienne of lemon (fine slices). Don't try and mix lemon rind and the sugar mix - the acid of the lemon splits it.

Preserving Fresh Green Olives

2008-12-10T13:38:00.000+01:00

This method is called the Spanish Method and first involves the harsh chemical Sodium Hydroxide (which is very dangerous), however this cuts down on the time it takes if you did the traditional method of brine soaking for 6 months.
I bought my olives at the market, you may have picked your own.

1 kg green olives
Pure water
Salt
caustic soda
Fennel heads (flowers)

Wash the olives in clean water, use only healthy looking fruits. Put the olives in a glass or plastic container (NOT METAL) and cover with a solution of caustic soda (this is a very dangerous chemical, beware !) & salt.

The solution:
Flaked caustic soda (15g / litre of water)  - common salt (15g / litre of water).
Use pure water. The salt is added to the solution to prevent the softening of the more mature olives. Once the solution is added keep the olives submerged and away from light. Exposure to air will cause the olives to darken.
Leave the olives in the solution for 24 hours then rinse the olives twice with clean water and leave submerged in cold, fresh water. Change the water after 2 hours, keep them submerged. Excess washing should be avoided as it leads to darkening of the fruit and loss of flavour and texture.
After the washing is completed, the olives need to be pickled in a series of brines of increasing concentration.
Add fennel flowers (3 or 4) to the solution, it helps flavour and preserve the olives.
step 1 25g / litre of salt / water 2 days
step 2 40g / litre of salt / water 4 days
step 3 60g / litre of salt / water 2 weeks
step 4 80g / litre of salt / water 3 weeks
step 5 80g / litre of salt / water storage

If you have over salted the water you can soak the olives overnight in clean water at then end to 'refresh' them.

Fine Spinach and Leek Soup

2008-12-10T12:02:00.001+01:00

It's very green.

1 onion
4 small leeks
Good bunch of fresh spinach
1 clove garlic
1 medium potato
2 pints of stock
Brandy
Pinch of chilli pepper
Soy sauce
Vanilla icecream
Chilli to garnish

Chop the onion and fry in a drop of olive oil, meanwhile wash the spinach and leeks well (they're soily). Cut up the leeks and roughly chop the spinach then add to the pan. Cook it for a while until the spinach is looking darkly green and moist, add a clove of finely chopped garlic, stir in for a minute then add a small splash of soy and a gloop of brandy. Cook off the alcohol. Then add the stock with a diced potato and a pinch of hot chilli powder. Cook for about 20 mins until the vegetables are tender and then blend and serve with a dollop of good vanilla icecream and a chilli.

Onion Soup (French)

2008-12-10T11:40:00.000+01:00

Countless words have been written on this soup, that originally kept the porters at Les Halles warm. It will keep you warm, it's very simple and very tasty, and cost effective. What more can you want? We ate it recently in the Pyrennes.
As with all my recipes it's not the amount and weights that are so important but having patience and trusting that you can cook successfully if you can have an idea of what to aim for in a recipe; fretting about weights and measures, being exact - actually takes away from the central skill in cooking which is 'to cook'. Here it is paramount that the onions are cooked very slowly, it improves the flavour, releases the natural sugar and makes a great colour.

6 medium onions
25g butter
25ml olive oil
2 pints of stock
brandy
pepper

This serves about 4.
Slice the onions very thinly, melt the butter, add the oil and onions, stir to coat the onions on a medium heat. Don't burn them. Cover the onions and cook for about 10 minutes. You just want to sweat them. Remove the lid and stir. Cook them on a low heat, lid off, very slowly, they must NOT burn. Slower the better until they are a good golden brown colour. This can take 20 - 40 minutes. Don't rush it. Then add a slug of brandy and cook it off (so the alcohol evaporates - it can be sour). Add the stock of your choice (beef or vegetable), cook uncovered for 10 minutes longer add some pepper and serve with good bread. Most recipes these days serve with a cheese topped crouton or grate some cheese into the soup at table.